A guide to spending Christmas in Kochi

I’ve never been known to have a linear conversation and my blog posts aren’t very different either. As promised, I will jump between our travels in South Korea and India, and hopefully soon, some other exciting Asian countries. I understand there’s still some ambiguity about where we live now or why we came back, and I’ve updated our bio on the ‘Our Story’ page — if you’re still curious.

About a year ago, in 2024, we set out on a road trip that traversed 3 states in southern India: Kerala, Tamil Nadu, and Karnataka. Our road trip coincided with celebrating Christmas in Kochi (Kerala), our wedding anniversary in Munnar (Kerala), and New Year in Ooty (Tamil Nadu). I still can’t believe it will be a new year (2026) in a couple of days.

Introduction

We both have deep connection with Kochi and Kerala. I’ve visited Kochi multiple times before and spent some sweltering summers during my university holidays. My sister used to live in Kochi before she migrated abroad. The last time I visited Cochin was in 2009 I suppose.

Basil’s mother is from Kerala and her hometown is a picturesque rural gem called Pala (Palai) in Kottayam district. I still have fond memories of meeting Basil’s late grandparents (and my grand parents-in-law) in 2008. Although we couldn’t speak each other’s language (they only spoke Malayalam), I felt that we had a connection that transcended words. Or it could have been an innate desire to connect with grandparents because I lost mine (on both sides) as a child.

Kochi’s eclectic history is steeped in stories of intrepid explorers such as Zheng He (from the court of Kublai Khan) and Portuguese sailor Vasco da Gama (credited with finding a sail route between Europe and India). This maritime jewel and treasure trove of spices made it lucrative for traders to want to set up a base and sow the seeds of colonialism. Internal conflicts and peace treaties followed that saw Kochi change rulers from the Portuguese, to the Dutch, and finally the British (until Independence in 1947).

Today, Kochi is a heady mix of the old and new. The new city is connected with the metro (as well as popular car-ride services), has better roads than cities like Mumbai, and reflects India’s need to find newer cities for its burgeoning population. I visited Kochi after 14 years and was pleasantly surprised how it would give most of the metros a run for their money. Basil and I consider ourselves to be modern nomads and are always scouting for newer places to live for a bit. Kochi fit the bill.

Getting there:

Cochin International Airport connects Kerala’s capital city to different locations around the world. Those who prefer the rail route wouldn’t be disappointed either with a number of trains stopping at Kochi. We prefer driving because it offers us unparalleled freedom of finding routes lesser travelled. The National Highway 66 connects Mangaluru (our base in Karnataka) to Kochi. Last year, the highway was under construction and was a nightmare to drive on. Hopefully, the work would be completed this year.

Outskirts of Kochi City

Backwaters

Kochi (earlier known as Cochin) is the capital city of Kerala. There are multiple accounts of how this ancient port city got its name. You could read more about it (here). Despite visiting Kochi before, we rarely did the touristy stuff. My expat friends (In Seoul) seemed very excited about Kerala and I couldn’t see what the fuss was about. Our hearts were in the northern mountains of the Himalayas.

But we had managed to take a boat ride on the iconic backwaters. It’s possibly the topmost activity to do in Kochi. You could kayak, take a houseboat trip, or just a simple boat ride across the waters. I took my first boat ride in 2002 with my brother and cousins. The second ride was with my sister and nephew (in 2007) and the last ride was (in 2008) with Basil’s maternal cousins (from Palai). Basil’s cousins (being from Kerala) were quite dismissive of the backwater boat ride. They thought it was an overpriced tourist trap. What’s my verdict? It should be on your list even if you have just two days in this scenic paradise.

Chinese Fishing Nets

We drove from Kozhikode (after a night halt) to Kochi and these Chinese fishing nets (or Cheenavala) made an appearance somewhere at the border. My sister had first shown us the Chinese fishing nets, in Kochi, way back in 2008. I mistakenly assumed these to be the same fishing nets. However, the main Chinese fishing nets (a major tourist draw) are best viewed from Vasco Da Gama Square, in Fort Kochi, around sunset. Introduced between 1350 and 1450 AD by Chinese explorers, these ancient fishing nets use the cantilever principle for capturing fish.

We were pretty famished when we found a quaint local restaurant offering soothing views of the waters. We didn’t eat much because we had about an hour to reach our hotel in Kochi’s tech park.

In & around Kochi City

Lulu Mall

 Why would we go to the mall on Christmas Eve? Honestly, it’s not something I’d recommend if your’e on a short trip to Kochi. However, we had to drive across states and Basil had forgotten his insulated coffee bottle back in the apartment. Coffee is what keeps him awake on chaotic roads.

We were waiting for my sister (and her family) who was also visiting Kochi at that time. We had a fair amount of time to kill so we explored the floors, the coffee shops, the tourist trinket shops, the eateries, and handloom exhibitions. Lulu Mall is quite popular with some of my cousins who live in Dubai and I was quite impressed by how much Kochi had changed since our last visit. The Kochi Metro at Edappally metro station connects the city (via a walkway) to Lulu Mall.

Lunch at Paragon

We saw Paragon tucked away in the corner of the food court. Basil and I were both craving for some authentic Kerala cuisine and were excited to explore. Now, Paragon has outlets on multiple floors of Lulu Mall. So, my sister and her family were seated on one floor, while we were on another, and we finally met after a good half hour of confusion. Basil ordered the meat thaali (an assortment of veggies, rice, meat/fish, and a traditional sweet). I don’t remember what I ordered, but I remember feeling satiated with whatever it was. Or possibly, I just had a bit of everything.

Broadway Street (Spices & More)

My mother-in-law was pretty miffed that we weren’t spending Christmas in Bombay (Mumbai) with them. To placate a disgruntled mother-in-law can be a herculean task and many a seasoned daughter-in-law may have failed before me. I may have melted some tough cookies on our travels, but I still haven’t learned how to win the affection of my mother-in-law. No wonder there’s a whole monopoly on mother-in-law and daughter-in-law dramas on local TV. Turns out, globally, most daughter-in-laws (barring a few exceptions) also feel the same. My Spanish, Korean, and Italian friends echoed my sentiments. I guess evolution left some things untouched across human-made borders.

We needed a peace offering and what was better than some spices from Kochi? After all wasn’t that what got the first foreign ships to Kerala in the first place. There must have been some reason for them to set sail on treacherous seas to come to a foreign land for spices. I needed to witness it firsthand for myself. After all, wasn’t I also treading on treacherous waters of a mother-in-law and daughter-in-law face-off?

Honestly, we were short on time because I didn’t want to miss the historical sites of Fort Kochi again. We entered the first store on Broadway Street (known for its spice and dry fruit markets).

A strong whiff of different spices hit my olfactory senses. The cocktail of aromas awakened some latent gene in my neural transmitters. I’m neither a good chef nor do I live for food (unlike my maternal family), but that store took me back to my mum’s kitchen — especially to her orange masala (spice) box. It filled me a warm fuzzy feeling. I wonder if that’s what made those early sailers want to stay back? We bought an assortment of whole spices (pepper as she asked) for my mother-in-law and packaged dry fruits for my parents. Peace offerings were in sync with the spirit of Christmas and new year resolutions.

Exploring Fort Kochi

My good friend Andrea and fellow blogger (jebusmewsandandrea) had asked if I had visited Fort Kochi before. It was definitely on her travel list, but she doubted whether she would be able to bear the humidity. I understand her predicament because I’ve never done well with heat myself, but travel is worth the pain. Thankfully, December (till February) is one of the best times to visit southern India. There’s plenty of sunshine, but the temperatures are moderate.

Fort Kochi, is a melange of colonial influences and Indian architectural styles. It’s the perfect marriage between India’s ancient past and fluidic present. I’d recommend spending a couple of days in one of the many boutique hotels peppered across the old town. You could explore hidden alleys or while away the time at an art cafe. The Kochi Biennale should be top on your list if you want to explore the emerging art scene. There’s a fair bit of stuff to do, see, and experience. It can be best covered on foot — if you have the time.

Mattancherry Palace

We were in a race against time. It was Christmas Eve and I wanted to visit at least one of the many churches in Kochi. I’d given up on many other sights. From the compound of the Santa Cruz Basilica, we saw the outer structure of Mattancherry Palace. We thought we’d visit again, but that never happened over the course of the next two days. This monument (like most of the other heritage sites) was constructed by the Portuguese for a Cochin King in 1545 C.E., but came into prominence after the Dutch took over and restored it.

Santa Cruz Basilica

The sun had begun its descent into the horizon when we reached the steps of the Santa Cruz Basilica. We were both raised Roman Catholic and church used to be a regular feature of our lives until we got married. I am agnostic now, bending more towards Spinoza’s (followed by Einstein and Carl Sagan) idea of a greater power. But Christmas trumps everything. Come Christmas and I need to visit a Church. This dichotomy of my ideas often perplexes my family who sit on diametrically opposite sides of the religious spectrum — from atheist to zealot.

I love visiting churches when they’re empty. True peace lies in solitude. The altar — dressed in red — added a dash of colour to the old stony walls of the Basilica. Religious figurines of Mary and Jesus flanked the main altar. This visual imagery took me back to my childhood when I read as a lector for Sunday morning mass or the evening mass as an adult. I remember being a bundle of nerves when I had to face the congregation.

The paintings inside the Basilica are the creations of Italian Jesuit painter, Brother Antonio Moscheni. Coincidentally, Br. Moscheni’s artworks can be also found in St. Aloysious Chapel, Mangaluru (my hometown). Recently, I visited the chapel with Basil’s brother and family.

The church was built by the Portuguese in 1505, a few years after they were allowed to build a fort (present day Fort Kochi) by the King of Cochin. Pope Paul IV consecrated the church to a cathedral in 1508. By 1663, the Dutch had taken over Cochin and the cathedral served as an armoury. Later in 1795, when the British took over the reigns of the city, the cathedral sustained major damages due to the invasion. The cathedral underwent reconstruction in 1887 and by 1905 was consecrated for the second time. In 1984, Pope John Paul II elevated the cathedral to a Basilica.

We had to leave because we wanted to visit the Jewish Synagogue before it shut. I’d liked to have lingered a little longer — if we had more time.

In & around Paradesi Synagogue

We walked around the old Jewish Quarter. During Christmas many shops will be shut and there’s a high influx of domestic and international tourists. Car parking is a nightmare and getting taxis is a task. It’s a struggle to get transportation and you might want to plan your stay and trip to the old town accordingly.

Curio Shops

We quickly stopped at one of the curio shops to shop for trinkets, magnets, and souvenirs for gifting.

The world of windows

Even as a child, I loved looking at windows and wondering who lived inside. Basil was in his element while the rest of us were wandering around or shopping for curios.

The Royal Enfield is an iconic symbol of freedom and exploration for intrepid travel in India. It’s also the trusted bike to explore the rugged mountain roads of India. Many friends have taken the perilous journey from Manali (Himachal Pradesh) to Leh (Ladakh) on this bike. I shudder. I prefer the stability of a 4WD of a SUV. Basil begs to differ.

Art Cafes & Bespoke Hotels

My nephew desperately needed to use the loo. If you’ve travelled with kids, you’d get what I mean. As an aunt(y), I estimated delays like these and didn’t set my hopes high on ticking everything off our list. We found a charming cafe/hotel that was shut for the day, but graciously allowed my nephew to use their restroom. We thought of visiting again (on Christmas), but that’s the thing with travel (or life) — grab an opportunity when you have one.

I desperately wanted to buy a painting from Kochi after seeing some traditional artwork in Kozhikode. Thankfully, on Christmas we could come back in time to buy art from one of the few cafes that was open. It was a portrait of a Kathakali dancer painting his face. Payment gateways weren’t working because of poor connectivity. Always carry cash or an alternate (UPI) payment method.

By evening, the lights were turned on and Fort Kochi looked stunning — I know this picture doesn’t do it justice.

Paradesi Synagogue

We managed to make it to Paradesi Synagogue just before closing time. There’s a counter to leave your shoes and water to wash your hands. There were barely any people because most tourists were heading back. It was perfect to marvel this heritage site in quietude.

The Paradesi Synagogue was built in 1568 and was later reconstructed by the Dutch in 1664 — after being destroyed by the Portuguese two years earlier. Each element in this ancient heritage gem reflects its diverse cultural and geographical history. The chandeliers were sourced from Belgium and the hand-painted tiles were imported from Canton, China. I couldn’t stop marvelling the paintings on the tiled floor on which we carefully walked on.

Paradesi (meaning foreigner) Synagogue bears testimony to India’s diverse and rich cultural heritage. I remember having a dear school friend (Aviva) who migrated (from Bombay) to Israel when I was eight. She wrote a letter after reaching there, but mine didn’t seem to reach her and we lost touch. I’ve lost count of the many friends I’ve met and lost touch with over the past couple years.

I often wonder how people assume they know our stories, on the basis of where they think we come from. But there’s so much we ourselves don’t know about our own history.

Kathakali Performance

The Kerala Kathakali Centre is also located in Fort Kochi and would be our last stop on Christmas Eve. We made it in time to get seats on the last rows of a packed performance hall. The air-conditioning was running on full blast, and yet, the hall was sweltering. We were all tired and would have loved to crash, but this was on my list for a long time. The main performer explained the various facial expressions and invited few members of the audience to imitate him. The performance started shortly after that. I wish I understood what was happening, but I was happy to watch it without knowing. There’s Kalarippayattu (martial arts) afterwards, but I was too exhausted to stay back.

Christmas Lunch at the Grand Hotel

Christmas was a bit chaotic because we had to all meet for lunch and the restaurant was packed for Christmas lunch. There was a long waiting period as many multi-generational Syrian Christian families had come for their annual Christmas tradition. Our turn came around 2:30 p.m. or so. I had already lost my appetite because I generally eat by 12:15 p.m. since our Korea stint.

I’m not sure what I ate. Maybe, a bit of what was ordered. My niece ordered Korean fried chicken and I was surprised that it was served in a traditional restaurant. The Christmas Cake (aged with rum) was the highlight of lunch.

Kochi at Night

There was a lot more to explore in old Kochi and I hoped we could visit again. In a day’s time, we would have to drive to Munnar — a hill station in Kerala.

Basil and I would like to wish everyone a Joyous Christmas and Happy New Year! Thank you for reading our travels and (mis)adventures over the years. We truly appreciate it. I will be taking a longish break for the holidays and hope to meet you on the other side of the New year.